FAQs

Krendl Machine Company Frequently Asked Questions.  If you do not find the answer you are looking for in this section, consult your owner’s manual or contact us at (800) 459-2069.

Q: Gear Reducer Oil (all models)

Mobil 634, Klubersynth UH1 6-460, or a multipurpose SAE# 140 gear oil (synthetic).

Q: Generator Sizes

250A – 8,000 Watts

425 – 8,000 Watts

450A – 8,000 Watts

475 – 10,000 Watts

500 – 12,000 Watts

575 – 12,000 Watts

VH550 w/ blastgate and bin level – 10,000 Watts

1000 – 15,000 Watts

1300 – 15,000 Watts

2000 – 15,000 Watts

2300 – 15,000 Watts

2100 – 20,000 Watts

4 blower 1000/2000/2300  – 17,500- 20,000 Watts

Q: 1000, 2000, 1300, 2300 – Blowers will come on, but agitator will not

-Check the reset button located on the agitator motor. Press firmly to reset.

-Ensure that proper voltage is coming in on both lines of power.Check the 20 amp line for the 120v machines and check both hot lines of the 240v version.

-Once found, the relay on the left controls the agitator motor; check for 120v at this relay. If 120v isnot at the relay, trace voltage to where it stops. Take necessary action to correct. Turn machine on and see if the relay does close. Ifit does not, check output power of transformer for 24 VAC.

Q: 1000, 2000, 1300, 2300 – Nothing on machine works

-Make sure the kill switch is not depressed.

-If voltmeter on machine reads proper voltage, either 120v or 240v, check the 2 amp breaker or the 1 amp fuse. The use of breakers is on the more recent machines, and began at the first part of 2007. Replace fuse or reset breaker as necessary.

-Check output voltage of transformer; should be 24-25 VAC.

Q: 309 Blower – Motor trips breaker

-Check input voltage; cannot be significantly lower (10% of input voltage)than the required 120V; this will cause the motor to over-amp and trip.

-If motor shaft does not spin smoothly, motor has bad bearing(s) and needs to be rebuilt. -Arcing in the motor; brushes need replaced. If there is excessive arcing in the motor, the armature assembly will probably need to be repaired as well as replacing the brushes.

-Make sure there is nothing jammed or wedged in the fan chamber.

-Keep cooling fan of motor clean to prevent overheating of the motor.

-Check condition of fan; make sure there are no fan blades brokenor excessively worn. If fan gets out of balance, this can cause bearings in motor as well as brushes to go bad prematurely.

 Q: 325 – Agitator motor does not work

Check the motor reset located on the electrical panel. Press to reset.

 Q: 356, 360, 370 Relinking Tele-Radio Wireless remote

-Make sure the batteries in your wireless remote are supplying good voltage (replace if questionable).

1. Take the cover off of the receiver by removing the 4 screws at each corner of the receiver box.

2. Supply voltage to the receiver (the yellow LED will light indicating correct power).

3. Press the FUNCTION button on the receiver for at least 1 second (the red LED will light). The function button is the left of two small black buttons located on the circuit board.

4. Press and hold the “OFF” button on your transmitter for 5 seconds (the red LED will blink 3 times and go out).

-If this does not work, contact Krendl Machine Company to setup an RGA in order for you to send the remote in for repair.

Q: 4000-G – Agitator will not turn on

-Make sure wire spades are secured at the end of the reducer clutch wires (located about 2 feet from clutch near engine).

-Check inside electrical box for loose connections. Also check contact blocks (they are red and clear blocks on back side of lid) located behind the 4-position selector switch to see that they are opening and closing and that the contacts are free of any insulation or debris.

-Watch to see if relay is trying to close or chattering while machine is running.

-See if clutch is slipping once it is engaged. Clutch may need to be rebuilt or replaced.

-Check tension of belts.

-Make sure selector switch is in correct position.

-Ensure that the 1/4” key has not sheered or come out of the key way on the reducer drive shaft.

Q: 4000-G – The blower will not turn on

-Make sure the wire spades are secured at the end of the blower clutch wires (located about 2 feet from blower clutch).

-Check inside electrical box for loose connections. Also check contact blocks (they are red and clear blocks on back side of lid) located behind the 4-position selector switch to see that they are opening and closing and that the contacts are free of any insulation or debris.

-Watch to see if relay is trying to close or chattering while machine is running.

-See if clutch is slipping once it is engaged. Clutch may need to be rebuilt or replaced.

-Check tension of belts. -Make sure selector switch is in correct position.

-Ensure that the 1/4” key has not sheered or come out of the keyway on the blower shaft.

Q: 4000-G – The engine is overheating

-Check oil level. Add if necessary (5W-20 synthetic). Change oil and filter accordingly to Briggs and Stratton manual.

-Check air filter on top of engine; clean if necessary with high pressured air.

-Ensure that the engine is getting fresh air from outside of truck/trailer.

-Clean cooling fins in engine.

-Make sure all of the bearings stay greased and oil level in gear reducer is accurate.

-Clean any insulation or debris from around the engine and machine.

Q: 4000-G – The engine is running at full throttle but the RPM reading is incorrect

-Make sure the wire in the back of the meter is secure.

-Check to see that the wire from the meter is wrapped several (3-5)times around the spark plug wire on the engine and secured with atie-strap.

-Replace tachometer if necessary.

Q: 4000-G – The engine turns over but will not fire / engine does not run properly

-Fuel pump could be losing suction; fuel line is pinched, plugged, could have a hole in it or line is too long and/or too steep.

-Check fuel level and quality of fuel. Do not use fuel that is older than 30 days. Replace fuel filter if necessary.

-Check sparks plugs (2) for fouling. Avoid using one old spark plug and one new plug; replace both concurrently. Refer to Briggs and Stratton manual for proper plug replacement number.

-Activate choke accordingly (pull plunger out) if engine is cold. Depress choke plunger once engine begins to fire properly.

-If engine does not run at its desired RPM (3200-3400), check backof throttle bracket to make sure cable has not come loose from bracket.Make certain choke is not activated (push plunger in to deactivate).

-Check engine air filter located on top of the engine under the lid; clean or replace if necessary.

-Check engine oil level. Add if low (engine left manufacturer with 5W-20 synthetic).

-Make sure exhaust is ran properly and the flexible exhaust tubing is not smashed or plugged.

-Depending upon elevation,(Western United States) the carburetor may need to be adjusted. Contact a local Briggs and Stratton mechanic.

-Contact your Briggs and Stratton manual for further information and recommendations.

Q: 4000-G – The engine will not shutoff

-Check wires on back of ignition switch. Replace switch if necessary.

Q: 4000-G – What should my tachometer read at full RPM?

-Your engine should run between 3200-3400 RPM and no more than 3600.

Q: 4000-G – Why is the production is poor?

-Check airlock seals for wearing or tears; replace as necessary.

-Make sure blower air filter is clean. Check blower by turning by hand to see if bearings need greased or if it feels like something is caught in rotors; clean out if necessary.

-Ensure the engine is running at full throttle (3200-3400 RPM).

-Check belt from engine to blower for proper tension.

-Clutches could be slipping; replace or repair as necessary.

-Make sure agitators are rotating in correct direction; counterclockwise as looking at chain/drive end.

-Adjust slide-gate opening and air pressure as needed.

-Check for bridging in hopper.

-For higher production, have the shredders rotate center-down instead of unidirectional.

Q: 425 – Agitator motor is tripping

-Clean area around cooling fan of motor (could be running hot).

-Ensure input voltage is correct (120V).

-Check bearings, idler sprocket; make sure they spin freely.

-Debris could be jamming airlock. Check condition of airlock rotor and seals.

-Make sure the extension cord(s) being used is proper size and does not have any breaks in the cord.

Q: 425 – Blower and/or agitator will not shutoff

-Replace relay, contacts are fused (stuck) together.

Q: 425 – Blower motor is making a slight grinding noise

-The three bolts holding the blower to the machine are too tight; loosen until the clear, plastic spacers are barely loose.

-If blower is arcing, the armature and brushes may need to be replaced.

Q: 425 – Blower motor is tripping (ELU models)

-Clean (replace if necessary) blower filter located on side of machine.

-Check for restriction in blowing hose

Q: 425 – Blower works but agitator does not

-Check input power for proper voltage.

-Check breaker; on non-ELU models, 1/2 amp glass fuse on electrical panel.

-Remote must be plugged in for agitator to run (425 and 450).

Q: 425 – Machine works in manual mode but not remote

-Make sure there are no breaks in the remote cord or loose wires inside of the remote.

-Check for loose wire(s) on electrical panel: two-position remote bypass switch, remote cord outlet, and relay connections.

-Check input and output power of transformer (120V in and 24V out).

Q: 425 – Machine works in remote, but not manual

-Refer to wiring diagram.

Q: 425 – Nothing on machine works

-Check manual reset button. -Check 1/2amp glass fuse.

-Check for obstructions around the relay contacts. Make sure there are not wires preventing the contacts from closing.

-Check input power at 3-position switch (120V). If 120V is on all positions of switch, check output of transformer (24V) by placing a  lead from a multi-tester on a 24V common and another lead on the BLUE wire (secondary) side of the transformer. If 120V going into transformer but not 24V coming out, replace transformer.

Q: GV100, GV180 – Why does my gas vacuum have poor suction?

-Turn the engine off and check the input and output of the vacuum for material that may be plugged in the chamber.

-Check the hose and clear out as necessary.

-Check the fan for damage.

-Make sure engine is running properly and at full RPM (3200-3400).

Q: GV100, GV180 – Why is the engine sputtering or is not running properly on my gas vacuum?

-Check fuel level as well as quality of fuel; no debris in fuel tank and have fresh fuel.

-Make sure the choke is not activated or stuck; check the throttle lever as well.

-Check to make sure fuel bowl is not plugged and shutoff valve is in the vertical position.

-Check oil level making sure it is not overfilled.

-Check air filter located on side of engine. Clean or replace if necessary.

-Pull spark plug out and check gap as well as the condition of the electrode; if it is badly burnt or is wet with gasoline, replace.

-Check Briggs and Stratton manual for additional information.

Q: GV100, GV180 – Why will the engine not start (with electrical ignition) on my gas vacuum?

-Check the oil level. If oil is too low, the engine will not run (engines have a low oil shutdown feature).

-If engine will not turn over, make sure the battery cables (positive and ground) are attached properly; positive (red) on the starter and ground (black) to the gas vacuum frame.

-Ensure the battery has a full charge; if battery is dead, charge as necessary or replace.

-If battery is wired correctly and has a proper 12V charge, make sure all wires are attached correctly and securely to the back of the ignition switch.

-Check the starter as well as the solenoid of the starter; rebuild or replace if necessary.

-Check air filter located on side of engine. Clean or replace if necessary.

-Pull spark plug out and check gap as well as the condition of the electrode; if it is badly burnt or is wet with gasoline, replace.

Q: GV100, GV180 – Why will the engine not start by using the pull cord on my gas vacuum?

-Make sure ignition switch is in the “ON” position.

-Check fuel level as well as quality of fuel; no debris in fuel tank and have fresh fuel. -Have the choke and throttle activated accordingly.

-Check the oil level. If oil is too low, the engine will not run (engines have a low oil shutdown feature).

-Check to make sure fuel bowl is not plugged and the shutoff valve is in the vertical position.

-Check air filter located on side of engine. Clean or replace if necessary.

-Pull spark plug out and check gap as well as the condition of the electrode; if it is badly burnt or is wet with gasoline, replace.

-Check Briggs and Stratton manual for additional information.

-Check Briggs and Stratton manual for additional information.

Q: How do I check the 1 amp fuse on my machine?

-To check the 1 amp fuse, you will need a device to check continuity between two points. Often, a multi-tester will have this feature built in. Place one leg of the multi-tester on the top of the fuse and the other leg on the bottom of the fuse. Depending on the type of multi-tester used, it will dictate if there is continuity between the top and bottom of the fuse.

Q: How do I troubleshoot the pre-alarm relay?

-Please call technical support at Krendl Machine Company at 800-459-2069 for step-by-step advice.

Q: KS200/250 – 110 Volt Outlets do not work

-Make sure generator is turned on.

-Make sure main disconnect switch is ON.

-Check circuit breakers.

Q: KS200/250 – Blower does not work

-Check main blower starter and manual thermal overload

-Make sure OK ‘orange’ light and power ‘green’ lights are on.

KS200/250 – Loss of Air Pressure

-Check pressure relief valve located on pneumatic pump.

-Unscrew entire valve and remove screen cap.

-To increase pressure hold nylon nut with 1/2″ wrench and cap screw with allen wrench and turn clockwise.

Q: KS200/250 – Overload OK light (orange) is off

-Check generator-must be running

-Check Main Disconnect ON

-Vacuum, Dry Machine, Blower, or Recycle horizontal and vertical agt. motors may have overheated. Wait a few minutes to cool down. Starters should automatically reset and orange light will illuminate. (Except vacuum starter which must be manualy reset – press ‘green’ power button to restart)

-If ‘orange’ light does not illuminate, vacuum thermal overload tripped. Turn off power at disconnect switch. Open main panel box, press red reset bar on lower part of large starter (c-11)

-Light burned out

Q: KS200/250 – Power light (green) does not turn on when power button is pressed

-Kill switch is actuated; twist and release.

-Make sure overload OK light is ON

-Light burned out. Turn R-500 or KS-2000 mode switch to Manual,Blower/Airlock. If machine runs, light bulb needs to be replaced.

Q: KS200/250 – Recycle or Dry Machine Airlock does not turn

-Check to make sure access doors are closed and interlock switches depressed.

-If R-500 and KS-2000 motor attempts to turn or chain jumps, airlock or hose could be plugged. Turn machine switch to Recycle. Turn blower on High. Turn Recycle and Dry Machine Mode Switch to Blower and check for air coming out of either airlock.

-With blower running on high, (valves closed): jog each airlock to clear out debris.

Q: KS200/250 – The Wireless Remote Does Not Work

-Does the LED light on pendant light when button is pressed? If not, replace battery.

-Is the wireless remote plugged in and is there 110 Volt Power?

-Try the corded remote to confirm wirelss remote malfunction. If corded remote does not work, check both Dry and Recycle Machine Mode Switch to be sure they are in Remote position. Make sure Machine will run manually. Check the 1 Amp transformer breaker. Check remote control cord for continuity.

Q: KS200/250 – Vacuum Blower does not start

-Check recycle canister-full (if full, unit will not run)

-Bin level indicator clogged or restricted inside recycle machine canister

-Bin level indicator plugged into outlet at junction box

Q: KS200/250 – Vertical Agitator on 500 recycle canister does not work

-Access door on canister, (limit switch) depressed.

-Check manual reset on motor starter in panel box.

-Check motor cord plugged in below main panel box.

Q: Why are the blowers running, but the agitator motor will not start?

-Check the motor reset (have to push hard, often cannot be done with finger).

-Make sure its plugged into ELU/RCU.

-Manually press in relay to check for function.

Q: Why do I have power on the meter, but it is not turning on?

-Check 1 amp fuse.

-Check transformer for input and output power.

-Pre Alarm.

Q: Why is my machine lacking production? (Example: production is better when new)

-Airlock seals (even if brand new, may have been installed incorrectly)

-Air leaks before and after the airlock

-Blowers filter needs changed / blowers are weak

Q: Why is the agitator motor overheating?

-Check all bearings; make sure none are in a bind.

-Check chain; make sure it is not too tight.

-Check airlock; make sure nothing is stuck inside.

-Check power (must have solid, even voltage to run cool).

-Double check amperage, make sure it is within rating.

Q: Why is the agitator motor working, but the blowers will not turn on?

-Check 15 amp fuses.

-Check variable speed control (power going in, power coming out).

-Plug blower into separate power source (see if blower or ELU/RCU is to blame).

-Make sure they are plugged into ELU/RCU.

-Check ELU/RCU for loose wires to the outlet.